I have just staggered back flushed with success from the weekly market here in my immediate area of Selami Çeşme, and behold my booty. Now, I defy anybody not to feel inspired just by looking at that. There is a kilo of spinach, roots and all, in the plastic bag which I will prepare for tonight; next to it, a marul lettuce and some beautiful rocket. I see the tomatoes are becoming those standard greenhouse ones but I had one for lunch and it tasted fine. The little cucumbers are just how they should be: crisp and crunchy. I broke my own rule with the figs: I know the season is finished but I just couldn’t resist them, and then I bought them from a stall I never usually use. Fatal. Usually one can choose one’s own produce but these figs were too far away for me to do so. As a result, the stallholder slipped in a couple of duds. Live and learn. The plums are fabulous and the grapes – well, just look at them! I couldn’t resist the beetroots either. The little bags are dried mint, peppercorns, and kuş üzüm, the dried little currants for use in pilafs. You can buy as little as you like which is very handy with herbs and spices. It is a good idea to have a look at those on your own shelves from time to time and chuck out the ones that have been there rather too long: they lose their oomph over time.
I didn’t buy leeks as I bought some just the other day: the first ones of the season, actually. Here is what I did with them: zeytinyağlı pırasa, a very typical olive oil dish for this time of year and one of my favourites. Very healthy and tasty. You will notice that for a change there are no onions included in the ingredients. This is because leeks themselves belong to the onion family so no need for more.
Ingredients
Serves 6
1 kg leeks/pırasa
2 carrots
1 tbsp rice, washed
4 lumps of sugar
½ cup olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
2 cups hot water
Method
§ First cut off all the dark green, leafy bits of the leeks and discard. Wash the remaining part well and slice on the diagonal. Put the slices in a bowl and cover with cold water along with the lemon juice. If you followed Jenny’s tip, simply take your carrots out of the fridge and slice in a similar way.Otherwise, trim , peel, and wash as usual before slicing in diagonals.
§ In a pan, gently heat the oil and stir in the carrots. Cook for 3 – 4 mins.
cooking everything together |
§ Add leeks, rice, lump sugar, and salt and mix together. Add the 2 cups hot water. Cover the pan with a lid and cook on a low heat for 50 mins.
§ Let cool before transferring to a serving dish. Remember that a shallow one is more typical.
Extra lemon juice may be passed round as it goes well with leeks.
Tip
1. All these olive oil dishes or meze are always served cold. It is only when there is meat in them that they are served hot. Go easy on the rice: if you add too much, it turns into a glutinous mess.
2. Note the size of these Turkish leeks. I seem to remember that the ones available in the UK are a different breed and are much bigger. That’s fine but wash very carefully as grit can be entrenched in the leaves, and make sure your slices aren’t too thick. I slice the leeks first and then wash, just to be safe.
3. I learnt most of these dishes by osmosis really. Well, a combination of my lovely mother-in-law and An American Cook in Turkey. For a long, long time, there were no good Turkish cookbooks available and obviously no internet. But in the interests of this blog I have been checking with actual Turkish recipes. This one comes from Modern Türk Mutfağı by Alev Kaman, an excellent Turkish cook book.
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