March 20
Rarely have two parties held so closely together had such a similar crowd as the ones held at Tailor on Tuesday and The Bikini Bar on Wednesday. One was promoting a wine-based apéritif, the other promoting tiki rum cocktails. Jim Meehan was making cocktails at both of them. At Tailor Toby Cecchini of Passerby, Brian Miller of Death & Co. and host Eben Freeman were making drinks, too.
I started with Brian Miller’s drink.
“What are you shaking?” I asked him.
“I’m stirring a Fat Like Buddha,” he said, which had said apéritif, rum, benedictine, orange liqueur and an orange twist.
I do respect a mixologist who takes himself seriously.
Beverage, wine and food writer Jack Robertiello and I continued our ongoing discussion of which types of writers are the most insufferable. He has had horrible experiences with food writers, whom he has seen engaging in high-school like acts of cliqueyness and one-upsmanship (or one-upspersonship as most food writers are women). I contend that wine writers, as a general rule of course, are trapped farther up their own personal orifices than food writers, whom I find generally act in just the friendly, contented way that well-fed people with slight wine buzzes should behave.
But I still think travel writers are the worst.
We continue to agree that virtually everyone involved in the hard-liquor world is gracious and fun to spend time with.
I caught up with Darrell Hartman, which didn’t take long as I’ve seen him in the past couple of weeks, but I think I spent most of my time with James Oliver Cury and Jay Cheshes, who both exemplify how nice food writers are.
Come to think of it, I didn’t see James at the party the following night — although I definitely saw Jack, and I’m pretty sure I saw Jay — but I wasn’t there for very long. Bikini Bar is in Tribeca, and I took the E train to Chambers Street, a huge subway stop with many exits, and I selected the one farthest away from Bikini Bar. I still managed to get there just 15 minutes after the party had started, but that still just gave me 15 minutes before I had to trek to the opening party at Broadway East.
Still, that gave me enough time to sample a rum I hadn't tried before, drink Jim Meehan’s cocktail and chat with a couple representatives from a major Puerto Rico-based rum company (can you guess which one?).
I talked with them about rum and its potential for growth in the American market. Rum as we drink it here is generally light and sweet, and people think of it as festive. The proliferation of infused rums further brings it into competition with the United States' favorite spirit, vodka.
The guys seemed eager to point out the distinctions between rum and vodka, which I found interesting since if I were trying to sell alcohol in the United States, I’d try to underscore its similarities to vodka because, despite all the efforts of the country’s “mixologists” and “cocktailians” to promote gin, brown spirits and, well, anything but vodka, vodka remains king.
I wasn’t at the party long, but I’m afraid I did manage to hurt the feelings of a representative from the Distilled Spirits Council, which was throwing the party. He suggested we write a story about all the different safe-drinking programs the various liquor companies had (which of course they do), and even though I’d had only one drink, I told him that was a boring story, which was mean of me (but true).
So I felt bad about that as I left that party, passing Bon Appétit restaurant editor Andrew Knowlton on my way out, sorry we didn’t have a chance to catch up, as I hardly ever see him anymore and I enjoy his company.
So I had two things to regret as I walked to Broadway East, the new mostly vegetarian restaurant, where I was meeting my vegetarian friend Kenyon, for whom it is worth leaving a party.
Kenyon is not only a vegetarian but a straight-edge one, and yet I still enjoy his company. I think that’s quite a tribute to him (or maybe the fact that I think so means that I’m a narrow-minded schnook).
It was a star-studded party. Not only were Kenyon and I there, but so, I was told, was Tatum O’Neal, although I didn't see her. She’s supposedly dating the owner or something.
I did see Kristen Johnston, from Third Rock from the Sun. She definitely looks vegetarian.
So I drank Pinot Noir and ate tempura vegetables and tandoori tofu and non-meat sliders and whatnot, and Kenyon ate the same stuff (but not the mackerel) and introduced himself to the random beautiful women who walked by and introduced themselves to him first.
I asked if people frequently introduced themselves to him because he was hot (I get mistaken for Jason Alexander — especially in profile — he gets mistaken for Jared Leto).
“Is that why?” he asked and shrugged.
Kenyon’s best friend and ex-girlfriend was performing that night at a place on Avenue B that used to be called Club Midway but that now apparently is Rehab.
I bought a Guinness and then who did we see but a girl named Michael, whom you might recall from a couple of weeks ago.
We were early, so we hung out with the band and I felt very hip and insidery.
The bands, Saints & Lovers, Neimo, and The Go Station, were all a lot of fun — Saints & Lovers mostly for the bassist/lead singer’s great voice, Neimo for the lead singer’s stage presence, and The Go Station for the overall music and the lead singer’s doleful facial expressions.
Kenyon, in fact, left before The Go Station came on stage, but I figured I’d stick around, although I switched from Guinness to Bass.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Bouley
March 20
I got an invitation yesterday afternoon for an event this morning. It was to visit David Bouley’s test kitchen and then get a preview of his new restaurant, Bouley, which will open in the building he bought after closing his original Bouley in 1996, sold after September 11, 2001, and then bought again recently (161 Duane St.).
I met David Bouley back in 1996, just as he was getting ready to close his restaurant, in part to travel the world in search of new flavors. I lived in Bangkok at the time, and Bouley was doing a brief guest-chef stint at The Regent hotel there (which is now a Four Seasons). His food was so good it made me want to giggle, and I have been paying attention to him ever since.
The chef was very chipper today, wearing pin-stripe trousers and an elegant sport coat over an open collared, French-cuffed light blue shirt (or possibly violet, but I think light blue). He chatted about the ripening apples that gave the original Bouley its distinctive smell and that will also be placed in the new restaurant’s foyer.
On the floor of the lounge at the moment are beams that were installed in a French château in 1751. They will adorn the lounge’s ceiling once the restaurant opens. The dining room is on the other side of doors from the 1760s. The floor — the parts that aren’t walnut and oak parkade made by craftsmen in Brooklyn, is 18th century Burgundian stone.
(stone, of course, is millions of years old, but I imagine it was hewn in the 18th century).
David Bouley said he would be back in the kitchen for this restaurant, cooking every day, looking at every plate, “like I was in ’96,” he said.
The new restaurant will have about 30 seats fewer than the original, so, somewhere in the 70-80 seat range.
Then Bouley waxed poetic about a wide range of topics, mostly the joy of really excellent ingredients, and how visits to Japan over the past decade have taught him how American restaurants’ own movement toward connection to farms is still very much in its infancy, even though when the first Bouley closed he was working with 2,000 farmers, some of whom could only supply him for about three weeks, when, for example, their peaches were at their best.
Then Bouley changed into his chef jacket and we headed into his test kitchen to snack on things like silken tofu with mushrooms and black truffle (soy bean, mushroom and truffle all taste of the earth, and so go together very well, he said), while he reflected on food in the way that geniuses reflect on things.
The session ended on time — five minutes early, even — which is extraordinary considering how famously uninterested in timing the chef is. His handlers were very interested in timing, however, with one agitated young man muttering in Bouley’s ear about the absolute urgency with which he needed to wrap things up. The chef listened politely and kept talking, but we were eventually politely shooed out anyway.
Bouley’s publicists said the restaurant would open in six to eight weeks. I would suspect it won’t be ready until mid-summer, and who open’s a restaurant in New York in the middle of summer?
So expect a fall opening.
I got an invitation yesterday afternoon for an event this morning. It was to visit David Bouley’s test kitchen and then get a preview of his new restaurant, Bouley, which will open in the building he bought after closing his original Bouley in 1996, sold after September 11, 2001, and then bought again recently (161 Duane St.).
I met David Bouley back in 1996, just as he was getting ready to close his restaurant, in part to travel the world in search of new flavors. I lived in Bangkok at the time, and Bouley was doing a brief guest-chef stint at The Regent hotel there (which is now a Four Seasons). His food was so good it made me want to giggle, and I have been paying attention to him ever since.
The chef was very chipper today, wearing pin-stripe trousers and an elegant sport coat over an open collared, French-cuffed light blue shirt (or possibly violet, but I think light blue). He chatted about the ripening apples that gave the original Bouley its distinctive smell and that will also be placed in the new restaurant’s foyer.
On the floor of the lounge at the moment are beams that were installed in a French château in 1751. They will adorn the lounge’s ceiling once the restaurant opens. The dining room is on the other side of doors from the 1760s. The floor — the parts that aren’t walnut and oak parkade made by craftsmen in Brooklyn, is 18th century Burgundian stone.
(stone, of course, is millions of years old, but I imagine it was hewn in the 18th century).
David Bouley said he would be back in the kitchen for this restaurant, cooking every day, looking at every plate, “like I was in ’96,” he said.
The new restaurant will have about 30 seats fewer than the original, so, somewhere in the 70-80 seat range.
Then Bouley waxed poetic about a wide range of topics, mostly the joy of really excellent ingredients, and how visits to Japan over the past decade have taught him how American restaurants’ own movement toward connection to farms is still very much in its infancy, even though when the first Bouley closed he was working with 2,000 farmers, some of whom could only supply him for about three weeks, when, for example, their peaches were at their best.
Then Bouley changed into his chef jacket and we headed into his test kitchen to snack on things like silken tofu with mushrooms and black truffle (soy bean, mushroom and truffle all taste of the earth, and so go together very well, he said), while he reflected on food in the way that geniuses reflect on things.
The session ended on time — five minutes early, even — which is extraordinary considering how famously uninterested in timing the chef is. His handlers were very interested in timing, however, with one agitated young man muttering in Bouley’s ear about the absolute urgency with which he needed to wrap things up. The chef listened politely and kept talking, but we were eventually politely shooed out anyway.
Bouley’s publicists said the restaurant would open in six to eight weeks. I would suspect it won’t be ready until mid-summer, and who open’s a restaurant in New York in the middle of summer?
So expect a fall opening.
VANGI BHATH
Ingredients:
Rice - 2 cups
Rice - 2 cups
Brinjal - 2 chopped
Cumin Seeds - 3/4 tsp
Red Chilli Powder - 1/2 tsp
Turmeric Powder – ¼ tsp
Tamarind Juice - 2 tsps
Jaggery – small piece
Groundnuts - 3 to 4 sps
Salt to taste
Coriander Leaves - for garnishing
Cumin Seeds - 3/4 tsp
Red Chilli Powder - 1/2 tsp
Turmeric Powder – ¼ tsp
Tamarind Juice - 2 tsps
Jaggery – small piece
Groundnuts - 3 to 4 sps
Salt to taste
Coriander Leaves - for garnishing
Roast (in little oil) & Dry Grind:
Urad Dal - 2 tbsp
Chana Dal - 2 tbsp
Coriander Seeds - 2 tsp
Dry Red Chillies - 5 to 6
Curry Leaves - 1 sprig
Dry Coconut - 100 gms
Urad Dal - 2 tbsp
Chana Dal - 2 tbsp
Coriander Seeds - 2 tsp
Dry Red Chillies - 5 to 6
Curry Leaves - 1 sprig
Dry Coconut - 100 gms
Method:
1.Wash and cook rice.
2.Roast urad dal, chana dal, coriander seeds, dry red chillies, curry leaves, dry coconut in little oil and dry grind along with tamarind juice and jaggery.
3.Fry the brinjals.
4.Heat oil in a pan. Add cumin seeds, some curry leaves, groundnuts, chana dal ½ sp, urad dal ½ sp and let them crackle.
5.Now add the ground paste, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, salt and mix well.
6.Add the brinjals and the cooked rice and mix well till evenly coated.
7.Garnish with coriander leaves.
1.Wash and cook rice.
2.Roast urad dal, chana dal, coriander seeds, dry red chillies, curry leaves, dry coconut in little oil and dry grind along with tamarind juice and jaggery.
3.Fry the brinjals.
4.Heat oil in a pan. Add cumin seeds, some curry leaves, groundnuts, chana dal ½ sp, urad dal ½ sp and let them crackle.
5.Now add the ground paste, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, salt and mix well.
6.Add the brinjals and the cooked rice and mix well till evenly coated.
7.Garnish with coriander leaves.
Same recipe can be followed to make Aloo Bhath.
CHICKEN GOLD COINS
Ingredients:
Chicken mince --- 250 gms
Onions ----------- 1 small, very finely chopped
Ginger Garlic Paste - 2 tbsp
Soya Sauce ---------- 1 tbsp
Green Chillies ------- 3-4 finely chopped
Eggs ---------------- 2
Cornflour slurry ----------- 2 tbsp
White pepper powder------ 1 tsp
Ajinomoto ----------------- 1/4 tsp
Salt to taste
White sesame seeds ------- about 3 tbsp in a flat bowl
Bread slices without edges --------------- 8-10
Oil for frying
Method:
1. Mince chicken well again to get a fine texture.
2. Add to the mince, the chopped onions, green chillies, ginger garlic paste, corn flour paste, white pepper powder, ajinomoto, salt, soya sauce and 1 egg. Mix well. Keep aside
3. Break the 2nd egg in a bowl, whisk and keep aside.
4. Cut 1 and 1/2 inch diameter discs from the bread slices.
5. Brush the bread discs with a little egg, apply a thick layer of the chicken mince mixture, taking care to cover the edge of bread well. Sprinkle sesame seeds over it and press lightly. (Alternately, to get a thick layer of sesame seeds, place the coin mince-side first over the sesame-filled bowl.) Shake off excess seeds.
Refrigerate for 15 minutes.
6. Heat oil in a shallow pan, place the coins mince-side first and fry at low flame for about 3-4 minutes. Then turn and fry the bread side until golden brown.
Serve hot with red chilli sauce or tomato sauce.
DRUMS OF HEAVEN (chicken lollipops)
Ingredients:
Chicken wings ....... 1/2 Kg.
Ginger-garlic paste... 1tbsp.
Ajinomoto ............. a pinch
Vinegar ................. 1tbsp.
Soya sauce ........... 1tbsp.
Red chilli powder...1/2 tsp.
Brandy ................... 1tbsp.
Salt to taste
Marinate the chicken wings in this mixture for few hours.
For the batter:
White flour ............ 3-4 tbsps.
Cornflour .............. 2 tbsps.
Eggs ....................... 2
Red chilli powder ....1/4 tsp.
Red colour .............. a pinch
Ajinomoto ............... a pinch
Salt to taste
Mix the above ingredients adding a little water.
Dip the wings in this batter and deep fry.
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